First Published 9 August 2012

At 4am, on the hell-train, they turned on the lights. We arrived at 5.10. It is now 5.35 and we’re sheltering in the Chinese equivalent of KFC, named Dicko’s. It’s a bit of a joke, but we’re here and last nights sleeper wasn’t as terrible as the first one. I think I slept for a bit, like a little bit. There wasn’t a snoring angry horrible man, and I managed to avoid kicking anyone in the face.

In Dicko’s the queue for the toilets is longer than the queue for the food and it looks a lot like a brightly lit refugee camp. With a dodgy stomach (still) the toilet queue situation is not ideal.

Back to the sleeper train, the top bunk was ridiculous. I have a cricked neck from getting dressed and getting my stuff sorted out. Thankfully it’s over. Now I just need to change my clothes and everything will be wonderful.

What do you do at 5.35 in a city, when you have a big backpack?

Anyway we have to wait here until 7am because the travel agent its coming to refund us each 100 yuan (10 pounds). I’m starting to wonder if it’s worth it….

But as I said what else do you do at 5.35am in Kunming, so we may as well sit here for a bit longer.

First Published 9 August 2012

9am. Finally the travel agent turned up, we got our refund and we were able to try and make our way to the hostel. By this time of course it is rush hour and there are lots of police around the train station which means none of the taxis will stop for us. As we have big bags and they aren’t supposed to stop, which is crazy as there are no taxi ranks anywhere.

Finally we get a lift, and were on our way to the hostel. Just got to drop our bags then we can head to the stone forest. Linz and I are both pretty fed up with the city already, so getting out seems like a good plan.

10am-ish. We made it to the hostel. I think perhaps it is my favourite place ever, it is clean, there are showers and our room has a little living room. Plus there is a bar and there is table tennis and balconies and oooooh I love this hostel.

The stone forest – wow!